Do you mean like Sunday, October 28 standing on a boardwalk that has its legs out from under it, 4 feet above the washed out sand. The boardwalk is shaking, the waves are to the horizon. 6 of us standing up there thinking WTH, then all at once you say to them, let's roll. Only you and one other taker go for it.

Once down on the sand, you see 12 foot dunelines that, even if you wanted to, you couldn't climb up.

You run up to the Paradise Found condo, trying to cross the seawall fearing getting smashed against it. So you run up those stairs briefly, then you bound seaward into hell. On a 9'2" LB. Made it out through the grace of God.

You're over 52, your shoulders are in pain, you live to see another day. Hopefully that day is March 6, 2018.

Get er done boys!

Agreed... BLASPHEMY!

And props to ummm for calling this ummm, you know... that one swell in March of '18.

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"Don't count the days, make the days count." -Ali
#rydyrstrong

 

well I was 23 then, lol.  now I'm 50...  and I still may be the only kook who paddles out three times on this big tuesday while real surfers are  "waiting for a cleaner session"