That's a big negative LB.....I just found a photo from that swell....and like I said it put the FoG in me.....the locals had it dialed in. I waited for the odd off-set wave and it still pounded me

Quick update

First of all, it seems like winter doesnt wanna quit out here.  First weekend here i surfed Diamond Head at 3-5ft, then sunset at 7-8 (and holy sht!!), and then i think i found my favorite spot at Lani's/Off-the-rocks the past two weekends.

I hadnt surfed in nearly two months when i got to DH and that paddle, albeit easy, smoked me haha, fun spot though and the biggest challenge is the crowd.

Sunset was a severe lesson in humility and although i managed a couple waves (which was no small feat for me considering my board was comparitively undervolumed) everything ive ever read about your first time at that place was true.  You'll paddle all over the place, get crushed by sneaker sets, and watch in bewilderment as a 12yr old chick completey tears the place to pieces as you drift off into deep water lol.  At that point i took a mediocre wave, and my pride, back in and accepted the fact i need a floatier board.  

Picked up an 8'11 firewire submoon, but to be honest there's too much going on with that design.  waaaaay too much tail rocker, and paddles like my thruster. been out 4 times on it, and each session got better, but you know when a board feels right for you, and this doesnt.  Pretty much stuck to Lani's since then, and surfed off the rocks saturday with the occasional 6+ footer coming thru, got plenty of waves, but ultimately need something a bit smaller, or at least more traditional.   

Fitness and crowds are the biggest issue out here, long paddles, but id definitely say florida is harder to make the lineups on big days due to the lack of channels. So far so good tho, thanks to everyone for the pointers.  The quest for the perfect hawaii all-rounder continues.  

Forget the FireWire garbage and go strait to pyzel or any other Hawaiian shaper and tell them what u are looking for and be honest about your ability and and what type of waves u will mostly be surfing.  If it was me I would go grab a pyzel ghost off the rack at his shop. Add an extra litre or three from your Florida hpsb for those long paddles and to get in early.  Have fun out there and be safe. 

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Just got a very brief, very touristy look at Okinawa and Ishigaki-Iriomote.  Reefs like crazy.  Would like to have a longer look, but it's really expensive for civilians to get there--Taiwan more practical.  My backyard Iriomote palms are looking fine.

Have a good six months.  Visit the Bishop Museum on a flat day.  

Keep us updated. I have some opportunities to possibly move to Hawaii after my stint here in Okinawa. But my god, after doing a lot of research, it's just so expensive. I have also spoken to 2nd and 3rd generation Japanese-Hawaiians who I work with here in Oki, and they told me the same thing. Hard to make it work on a GS salary, especially harder if you have a family. If I was single it'd be a no-brainer.

Okinawa is great, but the waves are inconsistent. I would even say that Florida is more consistent for rippable/fun surf. When the waves kick up though, even shoulder high, it's like tropical paradise, Fiji, Tahiti, blue water crystal clear. This weekend looks promising though, the North swells are winding down so I'm looking more to the Pacific side for waves. Next year, me and some of my work buddies are planning a Taiwan surf trip.

The immigration museum in Yokohama has a lot on immigration to the Kingdom of Hawaii.  They have this wonderful, huge present-day family photo.

 

Yeah its definitely pricey, and i couldnt imagine trying to raise a family here. Taxes are absurd, and dont get me started on the damn traffic.  They're building a rail system out here to help mitigate that, but are doing it from the outside-in, so it cant be utilized until its totally completed! Not sure what form of logic was used in that decision outside of "make the project take as long as possible so itll cost more".  Ive seen pictures of some incredible surf there in Oki, but i agree with you that florida is more fun.  

If you're talking proper 8' Sunset (hawaiian scale, not 2ndlight scale   then that's no joke.

I'm on my 7-6 in that scenario 

Haha yeah, proper hawaiian 5-8ft.  the 8 footers were thankfully rare, avg was in the 6' range, but it was pitching hard.  Getting over the hump is tricky, and a bigger board wouldve been far better, but i managed a couple, literally two, after the obligatory pitchings.

If you do make it there just be mindful of the tide swings, cant say that enough.  Its sketchy there, and theres a ton of sea urchins.