Caught Inside is good. So is Looking for Mo.

No it was actually this one: https://www.amazon.com/Girl-Curl-Century-Surfing-Adventura/dp/1580050484 I did like the Tribes of Palos Verdes if you have a teenage girl, too (or if you are one).

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[Feminism is] a socialist, anti-family, political movement that encourages women to leave their husbands, kill their children, practice witchcraft, destroy capitalism and become lesbians. ~Pat Robertson

You can't get any more teeny bopper hokey than this Roxy Series but I admit I read them all. Luna Bay #1: Pier Pressure: A Roxy Girl Series

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Replace turf grass with native plants that don't need irrigation and synthetic fertilizers or chemicals that can go into our waterways and ocean

Have not read but heard good things, plus Nick Carroll rules, but the book he did on his brother TC. For a look at an interesting character that is a sad story is 'The Life of Michael Peterson'. Both are legends and the story of surfing cannot be told without their inclusion.

I have read Barbarian Days, good read but slow at the end. Chas Smith's first book worth a read. I have his new one coming in today.

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QOP = Terrorists
FK = Gay

 All my books are packed away. Getting ready to move  from the Gulf Coast to Vero Beach area. Captain Zero was OK. Like Tee bird, I think Wisenbecker is way too self absorbed. There was another book he wrote that honestly it is the worse thing I have every read. So bad I don’t recall the Title. A book on the rise of the Surf industry called World In Curl is good give some insight to uthe rise of Surf culture and the the Commercialization of Surfing. Barbarian Days is coming up for a 2nd read. Kook a book written by a Sports writer from Colorado is about his journey into Surfing. 

 

I was quoting J. Moody, but I kind of agree with that sentiment.

Oh, another book I liked was the one by Kimo Hollinger. It's just a series of (true) vignettes, but he has a great sense of humor. Also, he's Hawaiian so you can get that perspective.

https://www.amazon.com/Kimo-Collection-Short-Stories-Hollinger/dp/0970261837

Two autobiographies  by Surf hero’s from my young Gremmie years are Morning Glass by Mike Doyle, and Transcendental Memories of a Surf Rebel by Mike Hynson. 

Looks like the order of the day for surf lit is biography and nonfiction, with some fiction and its subgenres in the mix.

I see a few mixed reactions to Weisbecker. My own impression is pretty indifferent; Zero's theme almost seems like a heuristic for reading the text itself - not the "end of the road" or the whole life, but only moments of the book are of value along the way. 

Blue Mind by Wallace J. Nichols.

Newer stuff or this from way back 1992? Playing Doc's Games I still remember reading that thinking "I am actually reading the best writing on surfing in of all places the New Yorker Mag (not a surf mag)...LOL..