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Topic Title: New Yorker let Finnegan write at length on Slater's wave
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Created On: 12/13/2018 04:07 AM
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 12/13/2018 04:07 AM
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ww

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    All behind subscription walls. Dec. 17 issue, and yes, William Finnegan got to try out Lemoore, briefly.
    First page, he sets things up with:
    "When he stormed into the competitive spotlight, in the late eighties, I couldn't understand what he was doing. He seemed to be always recovering from nearly falling off his board Slater had grown up riding Florida's small, scarce waves, and emerged with a style built to stuff the maximum number of hyper-athletic maneuvers into the least possible space. As he surfed better waves, the power and the creativity of his surfing deepened, until he dominated the pro circuit so completely that he grew bored and retired."


Edited: 12/13/2018 at 04:32 AM by ww
 12/13/2018 05:25 AM
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Central Floridave

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Grew bored and reitred?
 12/13/2018 05:38 AM
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johnnyboy

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I just watched the HBO special about him. I think you get a real sense of how competitive and driven he was. Machado was hilarious as the elder in the movie 10,000 BC where talks about making yourself be ruthless to be number one, priority, interference calls, the high five that cost him the world title. In the end, Kelly was the one who had it all and had nothing. In the end, Kelly was the one who got the gang back together and once stripped of the competition, had real conversations with real friends. I got a little misty eyed I'll admit.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

 12/13/2018 05:52 AM
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Cole

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Originally posted by: Central Floridave

Grew bored and reitred?


Andy brought him back.



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I was right.
 12/13/2018 06:16 AM
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johnnyboy

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That movie has yet to be made. It will be good. Very good. I think my favorite part will Bruce Irons calmly explaining the judges bias towards the favorite and denying his brother the title.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

 12/13/2018 06:22 AM
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AndreaCaloiaro

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When I finally get a spare moment, can't wait to read this - one of the best surf writers scrawling on one of the best surfers. \m/
 12/14/2018 06:53 AM
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moody

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Yeah, I love Finnegan's writing, so I'll read this. I also am planning to watch the movie after I can figure out how to finagle the HBO thing.

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[Feminism is] a socialist, anti-family, political movement that encourages women to leave their husbands, kill their children, practice witchcraft, destroy capitalism and become lesbians. ~Pat Robertson
 12/14/2018 09:03 AM
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rc

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Originally posted by: johnnyboy

That movie has yet to be made. It will be good. Very good. I think my favorite part will Bruce Irons calmly explaining the judges bias towards the favorite and denying his brother the title.


There was the JBay incident where Andy had dominated the heat and in the middle of it the wind came onshore shutting the tube down and Ke11y still edged him with 2 9.x rides.

Andy was kicking chairs and cussing on the beach.

Later that evening Andy reviewed the film and conceded the victory by Ke11y as legitimate.

And Bruce says it was biased? Come on, the man needed no help.

Edited: 12/14/2018 at 09:03 AM by rc
 12/14/2018 01:03 PM
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johnnyboy

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There was a full on war between them. It was funny to watch the reporters give Bruce the microphone to start a tirade. What's funny is that the whole drama and favorite son narrative cast Andy as the anti-Kelly. He grew into that with a punk Hawaiin way about him. Kelly pretended he was totally unaware that he was provoking them. It made both of them surf better because of the competition. As good as they both were naturally, hatred of each other, not the joy of surfing, made them push themselves deeper and harder as we watched. Every time they were forced to stand on stage with each other, trading the lead, you could see the kind of hate usually reserved for someone who killed your family in front of you. I thought those years that Andy won were legit and same with Kelly. It was just ironic to hear every one associated with WCT, surfing and them talk about surfing in general as soul satisfying spiritual experience that brought the surfer back the basic joy of life. No it wasn't. It was hatred set up and cultivated by the industry to make two world class surfers arch rivals.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

 12/14/2018 02:40 PM
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rc

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Never really thought about what created that rivalry, and I just thought it was generated by Kelly stepping away and then seeing this kid take over.

It took Kelly several years to wrestle it away from him. I was there in Cocoa Beach to drink from his chalice for #7 (I hated that crooked finger number 7). Loved Sl8ter, but that didn't last.

I used to talk to Judy a lot back in the 90s and one of the funniest things she told me was about Andy and the press. She would say he'd be trashing Kelly in a press conference and then wonder how it got out. She of course was defending her son, but it was as if he didn't realize everything he said would be told to the world.

Don't get me wrong, I was very sad in his passing and had a great amount of respect for AI, but I loved that rivalry.

Edited: 12/14/2018 at 02:42 PM by rc
 12/15/2018 02:05 AM
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ww

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The full story is delight. It gets into the W.S.L., even to Beth Greve's beginner board "with the fins put in backwards." Typical of the New Yorker, only one photo, of Slater on one of his waves. The Wave Ranch does have a problem with seiching, end-to-end and side-to-side sloshing. On a bigger scale, Lake Michigan is kind of famous for its seiches.
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