Hang 10... or as they now say...hit the lip!

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Created On: 02/11/2019 03:23 PM
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 02/11/2019 03:23 PM
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Went up to Bunky's tonight for their "Monday 39 cent Wing Special!!!"
After having a belly full of their hot spicy wings i left and drove along A1A to go home.

It was getting pretty dark but there walking along the side walk I could still see the silhouette of a surfer wearing a wet suit and carrying his board!

Did the waves get better??? Did the wind switch??? What was he doing?

I pull into an empty Buccaneer parking lot to check for myself!
What waves as I look out over the darkening Ocean?
There is no one around, nobody out surfing, just a bicycle lying by the steps.
With all this cool North wind, it was only making some crossed chopped breaking on the shore tiny little almost high tide floppers!!!

Oh well i turn my truck about and head for home.

As I'm waiting for traffic to clear to so i can cross A1A I can see about a half block away this black silhouette walking toward me!

When he gets close enough I ask "you've been surfing!!!???"

He says "yea it's really good, but the drift is bad. I went out at RC's and drifted down to pet den in about a half hour!"
"But it's really fun!"

I ask if he needs a ride to RC's.

"No I got my bike!" he responds.

See ya!

So when I get home tell my wife about the kid I just saw who was surfing junky drifty waves till dark and about how far he had to walk because of the drift! And how some kids will surf on anything!

She smiles and says "who does that remind you of?"


It's been a long time!

- Insert self here!-

See you tomorrow evening kid!


Angular Momentum Travels in The Best of Circles
 02/12/2019 05:27 AM
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Central Floridave

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Ditto. I always say when I retire (sometime soon) that I will return to grom-hood and surf everything and anything all-the-time. Then surf fish when its flat. Just like the good ole days!
 02/12/2019 02:37 PM
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Great post!

I love surfing, but when it's like this I find more reasons NOT to go out than to do what the lad was doing last night. I pull the car over at Scorpion Court, run up the boardwalk, stare for 5 minutes justifying how bad it is, then go home.

This is one seriously bad "winter". We've had virtually NOTHING.

It's been nearly 12 months since Mr. Riley came to town. Now THAT was some good surf, if only for 3 hours!
 02/12/2019 05:42 PM
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It sounds like you guys have to come visit. ~Greg

http://www.crsurf.com ~ CR Surf Travel Company

Instagram - @crsurf
1% for the Planet Member
 02/12/2019 08:55 PM
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Nice story Burry .... kinda reminds me of one time:

I went to visit some friends in the Sunset Beach area of Treasure Island, Fl (Gulf coast) and as I pulled into their driveway, a car with about 6 boards on the top screeched to a halt in the road, in front of the house.

I am not even sure the car was fully stopped, when surf rats piled out like clowns outta a clown car. Whooping and hollering, they unstrapped their boards and beat feet up the street to the beach access. It was early summer and I was 99.99876% sure that it was Gulf Coast flat. Naturally, I had to walk over and make sure and as I reached the beach the crew was paddling out .... still whooping and hollering.

I was sorta wrong, cause it was not that lake flat the The Gulf of Mexico can and often is .... It was that Gulf Coast, shin high, short period, gutless, formless, wind chop. I stood there for 10 mins or so watching the crew attempt to catch "waves" and having a big ol time doing it.

I had two thoughts ...... that is one of the saddest things that I have ever seen, getting that fired up over this pitiful excuse for "surf" ....and, I wish like hell I still could.

"Most people would die sooner than think; in fact, they do." - Bertrand Russell

"Morality is doing what is right, regardless of what you are told. Religion is doing what you are told, regardless of what is right.

If I do not answer you .... nothing personal, I just have you on ignore.
 02/13/2019 02:01 AM
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I can only know one thing for sure, that kid was hungry. Burry too.

add a signature since I'm here in profile anyway

Edited: 02/13/2019 at 02:02 AM by tom
 02/14/2019 04:35 AM
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Very cool post. I can relate to most everything everybody has posted so far...including surfing CR.... I don't get out nearly often enough at this stage in my life, but still read the surf reports and listen to the NOAA radio for the marine reports every day. Looking forward to a point where I can reenter my Grom-hood phase as Dave said. But that is a ways off for me. In the mean time I'll stop by the crossovers spend a few minutes watching and mind surfing, and paddle out with the buds when the stars align.

It was a bright cold day in April, and the clocks were striking thirteen.

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