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Topic Title: Google Doodle honors legendary surfer Eddie Aikau
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Created On: 05/03/2019 09:27 PM
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 05/03/2019 09:27 PM
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Bamboo

Posts: 5590
Joined Forum: 07/24/2003

Nice that they honored Eddie Aikau. https://www.cnet.com/news/goog...-of-hundreds-of-lives/

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It was a bright cold day in April, and the clocks were striking thirteen.

 05/04/2019 06:10 AM
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Kimo63

Posts: 394
Joined Forum: 04/22/2012

Eddie was a good man , but the Sea can be a bitch
 05/04/2019 07:40 AM
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johnnyboy

Posts: 15158
Joined Forum: 07/22/2003

Everyone is eventually humbled by the ocean. I myself have been humbled many times only to that I didn't need any more lessons. I learned the hard way two truths: it's the best swimmers that often drown and it's what you learn after you know everything. Last March I found myself on the outside of that monster swell in palm beach. I had my big wave board, I was ready and it was huge. It kept getting even bigger and it was so huge and breaking so fast that it was basically impossible. It got to where I kept paddling further and further out to avoid getting swept by the sets. Finally I was out far enough where I could not get the wave and I couldn't get in. There was a group of us. Stuck. It started feeling dangerous. I had paddled for and missed waves that looked like massive car crushers that I imagined I could make if I dropped in on my rail and I actually made one drop only to bobble and wreck when I held the rail too long. Here I was again. In a dangerous place thinking I could turn defeat into victory with a bomb drop and a pulled rail. I was blaming my buddy for choosing this spot over reef road but we both made our choice and we both thought we had beat the crowd and scored a bigger better wave. Instead we were stuck and couldn't even get in. Let the humbling begin. It took me an hour to get get in. My fin sliced my heel in the spin cycle and I got out a mile south of where I got in. How many waves did I get? None. I was held under so long I had to climb my leash. I only know this trick because I keep learning the same lesson and keep confusing bravery with stupidity. This is in no way the same as Eddie trying to paddle impossible distances to save his friends but his choice to surf monster waves and go on open water paddles for thousands of miles is the same. It is this. There is no fine line between a well reasoned risk and a stupid choice. The only difference is humility. You know, that lesson we keep relearning our whole lives.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

 05/04/2019 07:45 AM
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Bamboo

Posts: 5590
Joined Forum: 07/24/2003

Humility and Gratitude. It's a lesson we have all learned.

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It was a bright cold day in April, and the clocks were striking thirteen.

 05/04/2019 05:37 PM
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Kimo63

Posts: 394
Joined Forum: 04/22/2012

When the light goes on after you put yourself it that impossible situation , there is a certain clarity you get when you have to take your licks to get out of it . Glad you survived Johnnyboy
 05/06/2019 05:12 AM
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Cole

Posts: 41407
Joined Forum: 07/22/2003

Hell, even average days can be an issue. I got sucked out to sea in Cocoa Beach for God 's sake.

I made it home early from work on the big Thursday a few weeks ago and decided to take it easy on myself and paddle Cocoa Beach. I hadn't surfed a shortboard most of the winter because Florida was being Florida and I had played a two hour soccer match the night before, which I would normally skip if there were waves, but it looked too fun to miss, so I went for it. It was chilly, so I donned the fullsuit, waxed up, then paddled out. The swell was 8 feet at 11 seconds and the tide was dropping. Sets were booming and the 'outside' seemed to be getting farther away the more I paddled. I ducked and paddled, ducked and paddled and ducked and paddled for a solid ten minutes. The sets were large, but it was Slater Way in Cocoa Beach, so they were easy to get under. I had almost punched through when I got caught in the impact zone and took about ten to the head, by the time I made it to the outside my arms were noodles. I sat for five minutes and a sweeper set rolled through, so I paddle over them to take a rest. I was way way out. Another bomb set came through, but I was too far out to catch them. When I say I was way out, I'm not kidding, somewhere along the way I had been picked up by a rip and delivered to the shipping channel. What was once a fight to get out, was now a fight to get in. I paddled for five minutes and went nowhere. The rip was in deep water and showed no obvious signs; no wavelets, no color change, no rough water, so it took me a few minutes to realize that I needed to paddle north or south. Twenty minutes later I made it to the actual lineup. My arms were dragging so bad in the fullsuit, I had entertained the thought of taking it off and ditching it, but I was skinning it under the suit and walking home would have been a real issue. After another rest, I timed the sets in the opposite direction - paddling toward shore between sets - and managed to catch one of the smaller ones to shore. Land felt good.

I was never in fear for my life, besides the potential heart attack from over exertion, but damn!

Edited: 05/06/2019 at 05:16 AM by Cole
 05/06/2019 05:35 AM
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dingpatch

Posts: 14000
Joined Forum: 07/24/2003

Clyde let me touch this!

 05/06/2019 07:33 AM
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TeeBirdForever

Posts: 266
Joined Forum: 08/21/2016

What Bamboob said.
 05/06/2019 09:06 AM
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johnnyboy

Posts: 15158
Joined Forum: 07/22/2003

Holy Sheet ding patch. That thing must be worth tens of thousands. It looks like its in perfect shape.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

 05/07/2019 04:20 AM
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worksuxgetsponsered

Posts: 8124
Joined Forum: 01/19/2005

but I was skinning it under the suit and walking home would have been a real issue.


lmao...years ago my old room mate got slammed by a wave and it ripped his shorts completely off. He comes paddling up to us buck naked, wanting somebody to run home and get him some shorts. By the time we regained control of ourselves from laughing, someone spotted his shorts floating and he was able to save a little bit of his dignity.

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I challenge you to all out fucking life...
-SK
 05/07/2019 07:41 AM
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johnnyboy

Posts: 15158
Joined Forum: 07/22/2003

It happens. Maybe that's why that guy in Cocoa wears a lemon smuggler.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

 05/07/2019 08:14 AM
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Plan B

Posts: 2319
Joined Forum: 03/08/2004

Hopefully they find a way to keep his event going.... EDDIE WOULD GO
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