During a particularly perfect swell about a year and a half ago, I saw a childhood friend and neighbor who is a professional photographer. He was taking pics of pros and I thought I might get his attention with a big clean air. I hit the lip boosted it perfectly full of Kodak courage. I landed and my legs did a full split on the board making me look painfully absurd. Done. I could barely walk much less surf after that. On a perfect day too. I went over to my buddy and reintroduced myself. I asked him if he saw any of my waves and he said "no I was taking shots of the pros." It seemed like my legs hurt a little more.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.