Hey Matt B ... How the hell o are you ??? :)

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Topic Title: OY!
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Created On: 04/28/2022 08:00 AM
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 04/28/2022 08:00 AM
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SlimyBritches

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 04/28/2022 08:23 AM
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SlimyBritches

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I was camping at Playa Carmen, Santa Terresa C.R in 01. Been there for a few weeks and THOUGHT I had the place wired. Last day I woke up to a massive swell with of shore breeze and off shore winds. Looked like double overhead. I waited for out going tide and the last wave of the set and started out alone. I was ripping out, getting air over the smaller waves, until I was almost out. Almost for that day but out too far for the days before. This beast showed it's face after I got over double overhead sets. The lip was feathering as I was stroking up the face. The nose of my board broke thru the lip as it pitched me out. I was amazed at the crowd that formed as I kissed the dry sand.
 04/28/2022 10:15 AM
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johnnyboy

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I know that wave. I have been denied there.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

 04/28/2022 01:14 PM
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Central Floridave

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Great video. Thanks for link.
 04/28/2022 02:55 PM
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JOESTRUMMER

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( 0:56 ) An 11 year old kid is going to paddle out into that Fucking Madness ?---They sure start the Hell Chargers off awfully early Down Under !
 04/28/2022 03:08 PM
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johnnyboy

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Its a lot like watching the wedge on a huge day. Just carnage you cant take your eyes off of.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

 04/30/2022 01:35 PM
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SlimyBritches

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Originally posted by: JOESTRUMMER

( 0:56 ) An 11 year old kid is going to paddle out into that Fucking Madness ?---They sure start the Hell Chargers off awfully early Down Under !


I think it's because 90% of all critters are poisonous and getting mooshed against rocks is a better way to go.
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