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Topic Title: Huge Waves: Only One SURFER made it out
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Created On: 01/26/2023 07:40 AM
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 01/26/2023 07:40 AM
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Central Floridave

Posts: 52269
Joined Forum: 07/22/2003

Cool vid with commentary. Reminds me of when I was younger and in top shape and could make it out in any size swell. 80s/90s. Not so much nowadays.



Huge Waves: Only One SURFER made it out
 01/26/2023 04:03 PM
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johnnyboy

Posts: 25180
Joined Forum: 07/22/2003

That guy is my hero. Fighting a wetsuit too.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

 01/26/2023 06:03 PM
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SlimyBritches

Posts: 6471
Joined Forum: 01/08/2016

I hear you Dave. There's been many times that I would see if I could get out after work. I'd squeek out between sets and then it gets dark and the current is ripping. Sometimes one must take a beating for being careless.
 01/27/2023 05:22 AM
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Cole

Posts: 68418
Joined Forum: 07/22/2003

I did the challenge a few years ago. It was a paddle battle for 40 minutes, and I ended up the victor, only to find myself in a rip some 300 yards out. To make matters worse, I wore a fullsuit thinking it was cold. 300 yards out, in a monster rip, wearing a fullsuit for the first time that year in 72 degree water. One hour of solid paddling; 40 minutes east, 20 minutes west. Had I worn something under the suit, I would have stripped it off, and made it in with no issue, but the beach was packed and I had a three block walk home. To make matters worse, there were long double overhead peaks sweeping right and left all around me that I had no chance of catching due to a severe case on noodlearm.

Making it to the beach did feel damn good though...

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I was right.
 01/27/2023 08:18 PM
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ww

Posts: 16098
Joined Forum: 08/17/2007

Lots of detached kelp.
 02/28/2023 01:44 AM
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ww

Posts: 16098
Joined Forum: 08/17/2007

Brad Jacobson's been on a roll with his surf videos. This one's a marvel, the sort of persistence that's typical of San Francisco. As a warm Floridian, I need a 4/3 for southern California 60º water and 60º air with clouds (marine layer). A bit restricting, but makes the impossible possible. And today's suits are way better than my late 90s 6/4/5 in Oregon.
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