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Topic Title: The Entire Crowd Got CLEANED UP and Pushed to the Beach Topic Summary: Created On: 12/29/2024 06:04 AM |
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The Entire Crowd Got CLEANED UP and Pushed to the Beach
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Nice! Overhead whitewater. Where?
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Pipeline, where cleanups are a specialty. Great video.
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There were a couple vids from the past week that looked like even "4th reef" was showing! LOL.
------------------------- Dora Hates You |
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fast forward to 9:20 for cleanup. Love the drone footage.
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16:02, an accomplished, if unwanted bodysurf. The amount of foam is likely enough to be a suffocation/drowning hazard, so lifeguard rescue, appropriate.
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I would want no part of that. I appreciate the spectacle but from the land.
------------------------- "One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky. |
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I've been 'cleaned up' at Hanalei but, , , , , , fuck that Pipe shit.
------------------------- Dora Hates You |
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Don't see a lot of pogoing, shallow reef makes that a poor option i guess?
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Reminds me of the 1977 surf flick "Free Ride" 'coz they all got a free ride back to the beach.
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tom,
"pogoing" ?? I do not have a clue as to what you mean? ------------------------- Dora Hates You |
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pogo-ing as in a famous possum, or a long-gone stick-like contraption for kids, so they could bounce around? [can't log in under my normal ww, but the long-gone tag that it replaced somehow worked]
------------------------- wavewatcher - >ww - >wavewatcher, again Edited: 01/02/2025 at 10:47 PM by Wavewatcher |
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Sorry, yes, the long ago stick, not possum. I.e., heading feet first to the bottom and trusting that your Australian leg rope holds. After the wave subsides, the next one may require a repeat action so, "pogoing".
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Actually, "playing possum" and hoping the wave thinks you're dead and leaves you alone seems like it would fit the definition too. I've never had any luck with that though...
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I got the physical Pogo stick part of it but, , , ,. I never really tried to do anything but do my very best to 'get under the soup', here in our surf.
In October '72 Greg Loehr and I got 'cleaned' at Monster Hole. And, to begin with, we would normally be sitting about 15 yards further out than the 'crowd'. We always waited for 'the' big sets. So, it was a real-life 'as big as it gets' day at the Hole and we see a set jacking, , , , in the channel, , , , and we started digging, , ,! We made it over the first one but, , , the actual lip of a DOH+ came down on my 6'7" right in front of my face. Snapped my flimsy leash and, , , , , pretty much 'rammed' me into the bottom, , , at outside Monster Hole! How deep is that? The swim in was especially exciting when my left foot got 'tasted' about 40 yards from the beach!! ------------------------- Dora Hates You |
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My worst lifetime cleanups have always been at Playa Hermosa or Playa Dominical, Costa Rica. Thinking you are out far enough then those huge southern hemi sets come in that clean you up.
Two years ago I took a 12 footer on the head at Rc's that had me rethinking my age and how I'm not built for big wave surfing. Another flashback was a Reef Road day, 89 christmas I think where I saw the entire Atlantic ocean dump on me while I thought I was out far enough. Then the infamouse Halloween Swell, I surfed Satellite that big Thursday. Caught two waves but overall it was all about survival and making it back to the beach in one piece. Ah, surfing is fun! |
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No big wave surfer here, DOH is more than enough. I'm more about getting denied than cleaned up. I/we did get washed in from outside Kitty Hawk pier one memorable December day. Beaten and frozen into submission. Yep, love it.
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Got cleaned up and out at the hermosa in Santa Teresa. My son was with me and couldn't duck dive well enough for the big sets so he would ditch his board and swim under. It worked the first hour but it kept getting bigger and bigger. I was already gassed when the 12' set came and wiped the slate clean. I decided not to fight it and head in when I saw my son's board skipping and flipping out front of the tsunami barreling in.
I was already gassed and tempted to ditch but I was in no way going to risk having my leash break and not being able to get to my son. I got hammered and hammered and got pushed to the middle of the impact zone. Every lull got me so close to clearing it but once again another beast of a wave would come and drag me back into the beginning of the impact zone. Finally, as gassed as I could get with my eyes burning red and noodle arms giving clear signals they were no longer usable at any strength level, I got two consecutive duck dives far enough and clean enough to hold my ground. I could paddle just not fast. Another ten minutes later, I located the boy, 15 and perched on a guy's board. A guy saw him and knew what happened and let him hold onto his board to get the rest. I got there and introduced myself and thanked him profusely. My son said "Dad, can you believe I made it out?" I put him on my board and we doubled up and after a few ugly attempts, we managed to get far enough in to get a whitewater to push us and actually stay in front of it. We took another ten minutes to get in and the fatigue was starting to scare me but eventually my feet hit sand. We walked onto the beach. I told him not to tell his mother he almost died. We made our way to the rest of the family when a very pretty girl my son's age walked his surfboard over to him and asked if it was his. He didn't even look at her and just took the board and kept walking. We got to my wife, who could see in a glance that things were way off. "What happened to you? It was breaking so far out and it was so big we never saw you." "I almost died." He didn't even catch a single wave. ------------------------- "One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky. |
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