Early DP got the worm today, up near 2L, occasional waist high with some smaller little peaks mixed in. Water was very nice, still skinnable or thermal RG, sand bottom breaking through to the inside, no crowd. Got to surf with one of my tribe, bonus points there, stoke factor pretty high.

True again a week later. Getting better.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.