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Topic Title: Washing the car, , , , ,
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Created On: 12/21/2022 04:14 AM
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 12/21/2022 04:14 AM
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dingpatch

Posts: 18989
Joined Forum: 07/24/2003

Just venting, a guy at the drinking hole was complaining about the drive-thru car wash snagging some trim off of his vehicle.

First off, , , , , , DO NOT use cotton rags and towels. ONLY use microfiber. Today's automotive finishes are not near as "robust" as they used to be. Anything made from cotton, and the like, will leave visible swirls in your finish.

So, I was doing fairly good washes on my brand new Civic but, the finish would still have a little bit of "friction feel" to it from what? I Thought that the paint job was faulty? But, I did some YouTube learning and studied up on "contaminates". I was being told that I needed to "clay bar" the finish. Hmmmmmmm, sounded and looked tedious. Found out that there are plenty of folks who use a "clay bar mitt", which looks lots mo easy. Gave it a try and it worked pretty good but, the finish still seemed to have some "feel" to it. Oh ya, do it again but, this time instead of using regular household detergent (cloths or dishes) I used a "cleaner" similar to 409. The clay mitt (or bar) needs a lubricant, plain water does not work. The 409 did a real good job at cutting through the "contaminates", dirt and oil, and the previous "polishes/waxes" and such. The second time with the mitt did the trick. Very clean and very noticeable from "un-done" sections. I'm not sure if it was the "second" time or just the 409?

Then, water spots. Most acidic products will work, in that they do disolve a lot of "spot" but some products need to sit for too long. Vinegar does so-so but, how do you keep your car wet with vinegar for a half hour? Found a lot of guys use CLR on their car's water spots; for both glass and paint (right or wrong?). Works just about as good as you're going to get without mechanically polishing the finish, and it is a hell of a lot cheaper than the "car care" water spot products.

My new process for a "start from from the beginning wash" before putting on a new "wax" is to do the regular wash to get the hunks off along with most of the stuff from the "road"; you don't want to start with the clay mitt and rub all the junk into your paint. Give it a good rinse and you don't need to dry it. From there I do a section at a time with the clay mitt and 409 and then give everything a good rinse. Then, the CLR followed by a good rinse and dry. Then the polish/wax of your choice. I've been using a "ceramic" that works pretty good.

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Edited: 12/21/2022 at 02:50 PM by dingpatch
 12/21/2022 01:51 PM
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Bamboo

Posts: 7924
Joined Forum: 07/24/2003

Sounds like you are taking good care of your Civic.

The clay bar mitts do about 80-90% of what actual clay baring does but in about 1/4 the time. Both need to be used with a clay bar spray, detailer spray, or a home made concoction to lubricate the mitt or clay bar as you use it.
Personally, i'll use the cheapest detailer spray i can find and that seems to work pretty well. For the mitt I'll use spray or even soapy water, but the spray seems to work better. I have only used a mitt the past couple years, they really can do a good job.

BTW - It is best not to clay bar or clay bar mitt the car too often, once or twice a year maybe.

I haven't had issues with water spots in a long time. I try to use real car soap that has stuff in it to help prevent spotting, wash in the early or late hours and not in the sun, and use a chamois with my fav TurtleWax Wax and Dry. Not a replacement for real waxing but does keep a great shine and seems to prevent spotting.

Last real issues i had with spotting was on a super dark midnight blue K5 blazer. That thing was always hot and would cook off water it seemed. Anyway, I ended up machine buffing it to get rid of all the spots and then had to stay on top of it. If I still had that I'd coat the entire exterior with bed liner and never wash or wax that again.

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Edited: 12/21/2022 at 01:54 PM by Bamboo
 12/21/2022 02:52 PM
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LIV2SURFDT

Posts: 1601
Joined Forum: 07/23/2003

The Boss foam cannon from Griot's garage. Touchless, two steps, foaming wash and poly gloss. Used with a pressure washer it literally takes ten minutes. Wipe with a micro-fiber cloth and done. The Boss is da bomb!
 12/23/2022 04:02 AM
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dingpatch

Posts: 18989
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Oh and, , , , , , never wash your microfiber with any cotton items.

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 01/09/2023 05:21 AM
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RobdaSlob

Posts: 242
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And after all that work... go move your wife's crap out of the garage and park your car inside as much as possible.

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 01/09/2023 08:55 AM
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RustyTruck

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Originally posted by: RobdaSlob

And after all that work... go move your wife's crap out of the garage and park your car inside as much as possible.


From your mouth to God's ear.

Clay bar is awesome for a car you love.

One thing I wish I had bought years ago was an orbital polisher (I use the Porter Cable 7424XP). Use good pads and high quality wax, and that bad boy will make short work of waxing your baby.



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 01/09/2023 01:57 PM
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TATTOO74

Posts: 2407
Joined Forum: 10/26/2005

Originally posted by: LIV2SURFDT

The Boss foam cannon from Griot's garage. Touchless, two steps, foaming wash and poly gloss. Used with a pressure washer it literally takes ten minutes. Wipe with a micro-fiber cloth and done. The Boss is da bomb!


I have a large Black on black truck I plan on starting to wash myself. These auto detailers are losing their mind offering these "maintenance" packages for hundreds of dollars on a bro deal. I just ordered a foam cannon to limit my time out there. I also ran across a pre wash spray on a youtube vid that gets most grime off before you go scrubbing the grime into your paint with the soap. Wax on wax off Daniel Son!
 01/09/2023 03:14 PM
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LIV2SURFDT

Posts: 1601
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Same here with the black truck. Is there a better color for a vehicle? Negative, IMHO. I've had the foam cannon since I got the truck new in '19 and although I don't wash it often (its a truck FCOL!) I love the cannon. No matter how dirty it gets the two stage wash never requires hands on. Only touch is during drying and I use Griot's ceramic spray-on polish and buff it by hand.
 01/09/2023 05:26 PM
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RobdaSlob

Posts: 242
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What are you guys using for car wash soap in your foam cannon? I use Adams car wash. I like it but can't say it is hands free. I have a wash brush when washing my 3/4 ton (aka big white truck) or my airstream. For my car I use a microfiber mit.

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 01/13/2023 06:35 AM
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LIV2SURFDT

Posts: 1601
Joined Forum: 07/23/2003

Griots garage Foaming Wash followed by Foaming Poly Gloss. Coat the dry vehicle with Foaming Wash, let it sit for 5-10 minutes but dont let it dry. Rinse off and hit it with a coat of Foaming Poly. Let that sit for about two minutes and rinse with the pressure washer. Then I dry it with Griots extra large PFM Edgeless Drying Towel. After that I detail/buff with Griots Ceramic 3 in 1 wax which is real easy. Spray on a fine layer from a spray bottle and buff with micro cloth. Thing shines like a newborn!
 01/13/2023 06:49 AM
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TATTOO74

Posts: 2407
Joined Forum: 10/26/2005

Originally posted by: RobdaSlob

What are you guys using for car wash soap in your foam cannon? I use Adams car wash. I like it but can't say it is hands free. I have a wash brush when washing my 3/4 ton (aka big white truck) or my airstream. For my car I use a microfiber mit.


Mines a little more hands on than LIV2SURFDT. I use the Maguires Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner. You spray it on and you still need to give it a pass with a sponge/wash mit, then spray it off and dry.

I don't wash mine often either (it's a truck!).. Why I started doing it myself since these detail companies want to sign you up for a monthly maintenance package. I'm lucky if I vacuum the inside out twice a year.
 01/13/2023 06:52 AM
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TATTOO74

Posts: 2407
Joined Forum: 10/26/2005

Originally posted by: LIV2SURFDT

Griots garage Foaming Wash followed by Foaming Poly Gloss. Coat the dry vehicle with Foaming Wash, let it sit for 5-10 minutes but dont let it dry. Rinse off and hit it with a coat of Foaming Poly. Let that sit for about two minutes and rinse with the pressure washer. Then I dry it with Griots extra large PFM Edgeless Drying Towel. After that I detail/buff with Griots Ceramic 3 in 1 wax which is real easy. Spray on a fine layer from a spray bottle and buff with micro cloth. Thing shines like a newborn!


I'm going to give this a shot once I run out of the stuff I am currently using and I have to scrub it with a mit before hosing it off. Do I need a pressure washer to rinse it though? I have the spray cannon for the foam if that would work?

EDIT: I just looked the stuff up on Amazon. It's a bit pricey, how many washes do you get out of that 35oz bottle of the wash and gloss? Either way it is still cheaper than paying $150-$250 for a detail.


Edited: 01/13/2023 at 07:04 AM by TATTOO74
 01/13/2023 11:10 AM
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StirfryMcflurry

Posts: 8746
Joined Forum: 08/17/2016

Do NOT EVER let the clowns (&/ or machine) @ the Lexus dealership wash your car, whatever you do!
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