35 years ago, when we first meet, you gave me feelings I had never felt before. All I wanted was to be with you. When we were apart all I could do is think about you. In my sleep I dreamt of you. From time to time you would leave me for a week or so, however, you would always returned and make me feel special. As the years have passed you spend less and less time with me. Now each time we are together I experience nothing but frustration and disappointment. The time has come for me to move on with my life. Farewell, Marty

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I live my life onewave at a time!

U r dead 2 me....

it's not you, it's me !

i'm starting to feel the same way.

the stoke is wearing thin these days

"You can grow old waiting for surf in Florida." -Dick Catri

35 yeas ago....
...oh wait, I can't remember back that far.

But as I grow older, I relish each day I paddle out.
It was bumpy and lumpy this morning, but once again,
you put a smile on my face, even after all those years.

You provided me with plenty of chest plus drops with some fun sections,
made me feel younger than I really am (except on the paddle back out)
and I thank your for not having to do a two-car drift session, with a
much more manageable drift, even for an 'old guy' on a longboard this morning.

ps.... I liked it better at the higher tide.
It seemed to get more bumpy as the tide dropped.






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Puerto Rico 11 - 24 - 2013

I love you but I am not in love with you.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

Sunrise - everything you said. It never got better after after you caught that head high bomb in. Got a few more shoulder high mid break stuff and left. Wind was different today than yesterday but still plenty of fun at first. I'm spent anyway. Surfed-out for 1st time in a long time. Rest 1 day then hit it again.

OneWave - can I have your boards?

(You're kidding yourself anyway. It's like the Hawaiian dude said in Step Into Liquid - it's like the mob. Once you're in you can never leave.)

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Brother, when you get a minute, could I get a list of the words that trigger these fits?


Hey. Where are we going? (And what are we doing in a hand-basket?)

"Just when I thought I was out, they pull me back in!" ~ Michael Corleone

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Life is a garden*Dig it!

If you hang in there long enough, eventually the memory spottiness sets in and it SEEMS like it's getting better - oh wait, I WASN'T out surfing last week? Well, sure seemed like it, and I remember it was FUN! Or wasn't, but at this point I don't really care anymore... Just hang on for that

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[Feminism is] a socialist, anti-family, political movement that encourages women to leave their husbands, kill their children, practice witchcraft, destroy capitalism and become lesbians. ~Pat Robertson

life is too short and dull to lose interest in such a wonderful activity. but hey if it's really that disgruntling for you than more waves for me!

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sneedeker

........then you start SUP and you can go out everyday of the year

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www.paddlingparadise.com        

If your frustration and disappointment stems from lack of waves due to table muscle and jello arms, it's your own damn fault. Don't blame the ocean.

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I was right.

I know how you feel. I usually don't get too stoked about onshore slop, but these last 3 days of NE windswell has been kinda fun for me. I got a new board and its magic on sizeable but crummy waves like this.

You can leave the Ocean and surfing, but, it cant leave you...

I'm in friggin SW Virginia, and think about surfing every day and kick myself for parting ways with the ocean and the waves it gave. But, that is anothyer story altogether. 

Other than my wife and son, nothing ever gave me as much joy (or frustration). 

Maybe you just need a break. Come back tabla rasa. Do a 180 on type of board you would normally grab. Watch Endless Summer then Blazing Boards.  Go in a shop, baggies dripping wet, and just sniff the wax while watching whatever surfflick is on the tv , if there is one. Find that inner grom. Whatever...

...but, dont leave it. You cant anyway. I tired. I aint gonna work...  

 

 

Dear Onewave,

I have some good news and some bad news.  The bad news is that I have to break up with you too.  The good news...  I will tell you later.

I'm sorry.  Something unexpected happened.  I fell in love with someone else.  I'm going to try to explain.  This is why I'm writing this letter.  I hope that I can find the words and that you will understand.

The persons I am in love with are very special.  I have never met anyone like them before.  I didn't even know that such persons could exist.  You don't know them, by the way.  They are not from places you are not familiar with.  I mean, they are REALLY not from here at all.  They are from from...

I hesitate to tell you because you are not going to believe me.  But I will tell you anyway since I have promised to always be open and honest with you.  I don't know the name of the places where they come from, but I know one thing.  They do not come from Florida.

I say "they" but these persons could as well be "them".  I'm just trying to make it less shocking to you, so I will continue to refer to these persons as "they".  They are not from this state but it doesn't mean that they are not human.  They are very much persons, not of our race but definitely of our species.  So they are different, but only in the sense that they originated somewhere else.

They came into my life a few years ago when I least expected it.  I was not looking for anyone, I was very much dedicated to you.  But when I met them, they showed me (proved to me) that they and I were destined to be together for the rest of eternity.  So, I didn't have much choice.  At first I didn't believe them, but after a while I realized that they were right and that it was time for me, for us, to move forward.

Now the good news:  the people I am in love with have brothers and sisters whom you are destined to meet sooner or later. They love to bowl. That's right, believe it or not.  When you meet them you will fall in love with them.  What happened to me is going to happen to you too.  You won't be disappointed, these people are out-of-this-world!

So right now I have to break up with you.  My destiny has changed and yours will change too.  Don't despair because eventually this will be for the best for both of us.  It might feel like an end but this is a new beginning.  I am leaving you but we will meet again on the other side - where I will be married to my soul and you will be married to yours.

Surfing

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Dora Hates You

Marty can surf better than everyone that has commented on this thread. I feel his frustration too, and who wants to buy a 10ft board to make surfing look good again?!?

 

You'll be back. Maybe not this year, maybe not next, BUT ... you'll be back

Surfing ain't about being good bro. Maybe thats the problem. Maybe he's focusing too much on "doing good" rather than just having some fun in the sun.

Ones ability doesnt qualify or disocount ones stoke.

Besides, I think everyone is on Marty's and surfing's side; we really dont want to see this end in divorce.  I posted from the heart as someone who was/is in his shoes (plus some other life situations that provided stimuli for me).  I left the ocean... and it's sucked

 

Being a surfer in palm beach county markets you feel just like the OP.  I told my wife I wouldn't even follow the surf forecast or think about surfing if I could go to Central America once a quarter.  She said no deal.  I feel like Marty a lot.