I've told this tory here some time ago but, it never gets old, , , ,

I Didn't Know, Nobody Told Me!

On our first thrip to Hawaii in April 2005 my wife and I flew into Kahului and stayed in Kihei for a week. We then hopped over to the Big Island and stayed in Kona for 5 nights. Then, we went to Honolulu and stayed at the Hilton Hawaiian Village on Waikiki for five nights. I surfed Kaisers every morning on a rented 10'0" South Point. It was waist to shoulder high and I had a blast!! While I surfed, the wife would just "laze about" on the grounds of the Hilton. When I got out of the water I'd go to the room, get cleaned up, and then go round her up and go somewhere and have lunch.

Anyway, , , , , ,

The one day, after about 3 hours of "ripping" up Kaisers, LOL, it was time to go in for lunch. As with just about everywhere else at Waikiki, the waves at Kaiser finish breaking and peter out a distance from the sand. So, on my last wave I road it as far as I could then went prone and paddled along with the 6 inches of soup for as far as it would push me. Just as I stopped and sat up on the board, I heard some "whooping" behind me. I turned around to see a "surf school" tourist finishing a ride, and he was STOKED!!! He had on a boonie hat, a "surf school" tee, swimming trunks and reef walkers. He was maintaining a very noticeable "stink bug" stance; I swear his chin was lower than his ass!

Again, he was STOKED. I told him "Good ride". His immediate reply was "I didn't know, nobody told me!". What??? "I didn't know, nobody told me about surfing!!" He had been at the Hilton for five days with his family and he took the surf class every morning and eventually was able to paddle, stand up, and ride on his own. He was STOKED!! There were a few words back-and-forth and then he blurted "What do I do?" What??? "I fly back to Chicago tonight, what do I do?" I replied, in so many words, "Well, you are F'ed!! You are a SURFER now, your life will NEVER be the same as it was. Without waves you will go nuts!" He took very great pleasure in being called a SURFER. He was STOKED!! "But, what do I do?" "Well, when you get back to Chicago, it will NEVER be the same for you. Within 3 to 4 months you are going to have to figure out a way to move and get to a beach with surf. You are a surfer now and you will be for the rest of your life!" He was STOKED to again be identified as a SURFER!!!!!

I told him to get back out and ride some more waves for me and wished him good luck, I had to get in and round up the wife, , , , ,. He turned around and began paddling out and I started the paddle to the beach. I did not see him again but, I am very sure that by the end of the year there was one less family living in Chicago!

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