ha-- we went out couple hrs ago for 2 waves, cuz you know, it's ridable. but then again I'm the king o'ridable at 3, maybe 2"s~~ those who know me know it's tru-- inches- anyway,, shocked I mistimed it I guess- and like got denyed almost for 4 mins after watch'in really nice corners at 3'-4' for awhile from d'sand. sat for 45mins musta been, goin; wHEre'd it go?!~ runn'in outta tiempo relinquish to ok I'm here for!, 1 wave. sit,-,sit. kid's on the sand sitt'in too ;^) , ukh-- here come's, 1st wave mind jdu, it's a 6' face!!) wtf- I drop @ a 45 under the lip look'in at jefferies down the line a hunerd meters!!! ns hahaHA I can leach off dat a few days now :^) !! gitsumyall!! I was soooOo lucky- That's all it is,, ever.) Enjoy!

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ola ~

damn that was painful
not the surf experience - just reading it

I ejected after about the 6th "word"



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"Most people would die sooner than think; in fact, they do." - Bertrand Russell


"Morality is doing what is right, regardless of what you are told. Religion is doing what you are told, regardless of what is right.


If I do not answer you .... nothing personal, I just have you on ignore.