Been stumped more times than stoked but it's a great wave when it does happen. There's a certain lane that seems to work very well.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

always hard to know the surf 10 years in the future

The elephants are marching, nothing yet on the shore

PBC could have some bump latter today.

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So if you are a surfer I wish you the prosperity that allows you more time to pursue the salt water dream, and the true happiness that comes from warm water, clean waves and the companionship of your fellow surfers. If you are an internet troll just spewing bs then f off.

Edited: 12/01/2020 at 04:01 AM by jdbman

Not "elephants", just a mirage of the offshore chop that is just over the horizon.

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Dora Hates You

The 120 is 10.8 at 9 with a swell direction from the WNW.

This is the appropriate angle for the supposed bounce thing to occur, isn't it?

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I was right.

The swell at the Hatteras shoal buoy is headed the wrong direction.

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I was right.

The call is who gives a shit its 49 degrees.. I can guarantee you whatever refractor swell is on the way isn't worth it.

I've seen Reef Road look like Indo. I'll don the fullsuit in a second for a few of those screamers.

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I was right.