So me and my buddy "toro" were surfing palm beach about three years ago. My buddy is huge. He's what they call in his triathletes call a Clydesdale. He's about 300lbs but he's super fit and still big. He rides a 6'2" that chris Birch made for him and he kills it. The wave actually whimpers when he lays on his rails. The wave was perfect. 6' to 8' with offshores and hollow sets coming in regularly. Bombing snd perfect. There were two pros out there with us. I won't mention names but there aren't many pros from palm beach so you can probably figure it out. The sets were far enough apart where the take off spot had us sharing for the most part. The one pro was putting on a show. Getting tubed twice on one that was a closeouts for 98% of the rest of the world. The pros were killing it and surfing awesome waves as good as they could be surfed. I got snaked by the guy I know. He dropped in on me and blew past me. This happen to some of the others out there too.
My buddy "toro" Dropped in on a perfect left and was two pumps down the line when the pro just dropped in. Or I should say tried to drop in. As he came down, toro came behind him and physically threw him him back and kept going. He rode the wave, his frontside, smacked the lip hard and killed it. As he was paddling back, I was over there by him to tell him that he had a bomb and he killed it. The pro paddled over and said "hey buddy, sorry about that last wave." Toro said "it's fine, but never let it happen again." I could see the pro was surprised. Toro then paddled over to me and was like "dude, that's (pro's name)." I laughed so hard. "Dude, I love the way you're touched by fame."
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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.
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01/10/2021 12:52 PM
