Curren most definitely has "Soul" and still rips. His style is timeless. That video made me dizzy though in more ways than one.

Tom has always had style for days. His attitude towards surfing has certainly diminished. "Tube, sigh" "Chandelier, ahh go away" If there's something, somewhat older pro surfers get sick of its tasty waves and gold digging women. They clearly resort to climbing mountains, playing instruments and getting hitched lol. Nothing wrong with growing old when you've surfed every spot known to mankind.

I was a beach lifeguard at Pacific Missile Test Center Point Mugu in California (Oxnard area) for several years. The waves there are incredible. You've probably never heard of it because it's a highly secure Navy Base (see video below of Dane at that exact break on the base). One summer after surfing 25 days in a row there I was assigned the lifeguard stand right near the pictured break on July 4th. The surf was gnarly and Tommy and an Oxnard local Curtis Caldwell destroyed south swell peaks for about two hours with locals and me in the stand just watching in awe. Pitted in hissing spitting barrels and so casual. It was perfect watching him bond with the gnar gnar bro.

I saw him a lot around that time in Ventura like early 80s and he would surf mini heats and do conditioning. He would ride a wave go to the beach, run up the beach and around something he'd planted there and then go out and repeat. A competitive animal really.

Then there was the weird magic he had, it was like he could be sitting in the lineup and waves would just appear where he was. Crazy.



Edited: 02/12/2021 at 07:04 AM by Greensleeves