I surfed choppy unconnected peaks in the drift zone. I literally jumped off a seagrape root ball to whats left of the beach to paddle out. I just couldn't get it together. One drop, maybe a turn and then the peak was expired. I saw one of my son's buddies who is in high school with him and he was stoked surfing the inside and thrilled it was at least bigger. He was skipping school for it, which I didnt think was worth it.

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"One of the reasons why propaganda tries to get you to hate government is because it's the one existing institution in which people can participate to some extent and constrain tyrannical unaccountable power." Noam Chomsky.

Shining little bodies of purple people stingers.

Wed. 4/27:

2-3ft
Thigh to waist
3-4ft
Waist to chest
Run of ENE swell may begin. Worth watching closely as this timeframe has potential for fun waves.

from Surfline.....

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So if you are a surfer I wish you the prosperity that allows you more time to pursue the salt water dream, and the true happiness that comes from warm water, clean waves and the companionship of your fellow surfers. If you are an internet troll just spewing bs then f off.